The City of Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in Urban Spaces

Each 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel railway carriage pulls into a spray-painted station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers hurry past falling apart, ivy-covered garden fences as rain clouds gather.

This is maybe the last place you expect to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. But one local grower has managed to 40 mature vines heavy with round purplish berries on a sprawling allotment situated between a line of historic homes and a commuter railway just north of Bristol downtown.

"I've noticed people hiding illegal substances or other items in the shrubbery," states Bayliss-Smith. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."

Bayliss-Smith, 46, a filmmaker who runs a kombucha drinks business, is not the only local vintner. He's pulled together a loose collective of growers who produce vintage from several discreet city grape gardens tucked away in back gardens and community plots across the city. It is sufficiently underground to possess an official name yet, but the group's messaging chat is named Vineyard Dreams.

City Wine Gardens Across the Globe

To date, the grower's allotment is the sole location listed in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which features more famous urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred plants on the slopes of the French capital's renowned artistic district neighbourhood and more than three thousand vines with views of and within the Italian city. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the vanguard of a movement reviving city vineyards in traditional winemaking nations, but has discovered them all over the globe, including urban centers in East Asia, Bangladesh and Central Asia.

"Vineyards assist urban areas stay greener and more diverse. These spaces protect land from development by creating long-term, yielding agricultural units inside urban environments," explains the organization's leader.

Similar to other vintages, those produced in urban areas are a product of the earth the plants thrive in, the unpredictability of the climate and the people who care for the grapes. "Each vintage embodies the charm, local spirit, environment and heritage of a city," adds the president.

Mystery Eastern European Grapes

Back in the city, the grower is in a race against time to gather the grapevines he grew from a cutting left in his garden by a Polish family. Should the precipitation comes, then the pigeons may take advantage to attack again. "This is the enigmatic Polish grape," he comments, as he cleans damaged and rotten berries from the shimmering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they're definitely disease-resistant. In contrast to premium grapes – Pinot Noir, white wine grapes and other famous European varieties – you don't have to spray them with chemicals ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was developed by the Soviets."

Collective Activities Across Bristol

The other members of the collective are additionally taking advantage of bright periods between bursts of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden overlooking the city's glistening harbour, where historic trading ships once floated with casks of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty vines. "I love the smell of these vines. It is so reminiscent," she says, stopping with a container of grapes slung over her shoulder. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the car windows on vacation."

Grant, 52, who has devoted more than two decades working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, unexpectedly took over the grape garden when she moved back to the UK from East Africa with her family in 2018. She felt an strong responsibility to look after the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already survived three different owners," she says. "I really like the idea of natural stewardship – of handing this down to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from this land."

Sloping Gardens and Natural Winemaking

A short walk away, the final two members of the group are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has established over 150 plants perched on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the silty River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, indicating the interwoven vineyard. "They can't believe they are viewing grapevine lines in a city street."

Today, the filmmaker, sixty, is harvesting bunches of dusty purple dark berries from rows of vines slung across the hillside with the assistance of her daughter, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on Netflix's nature programming and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was inspired to cultivate vines after observing her neighbor's grapevines. She has learned that amateurs can produce interesting, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can command prices of more than £7 a serving in the increasing quantity of wine bars focusing on low-processing vintages. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can actually create good, traditional vintage," she says. "It's very fashionable, but really it's reviving an traditional method of making vintage."

"When I tread the grapes, the various natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces into the juice," says Scofield, partially submerged in a container of small branches, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how wines were historically produced, but commercial producers add preservatives to kill the natural cultures and then add a lab-grown culture."

Difficult Conditions and Inventive Solutions

In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree another cultivator, who inspired his neighbor to establish her vines, has gathered his friends to pick Chardonnay grapes from the 100 vines he has arranged precisely across two terraces. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who taught at Bristol University cultivated an interest in wine on regular visits to Europe. But it is a challenge to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to produce French-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers," admits the retiree with amusement. "This variety is late to ripen and very sensitive to mildew."

"My goal was creating European-style vintages here, which is rather ambitious"

The temperamental Bristol climate is not the only challenge faced by winegrowers. The gardener has had to erect a fence on

Jason Myers
Jason Myers

A passionate storyteller and digital creator, sharing unique narratives and life experiences to inspire readers worldwide.